Running With Scissors

Car Seat Blanket

5:00 AM

As I near these last weeks of this pregnancy, I am feeling so great compared to the month prior to my son being born.

I think a lot has to do with the fact I'm not working. Back then I worked nights, and that alone kicked my trash and I was always exhausted and zombie-like. I also had really weird things happen those last few weeks working nights, like this occasion where I had to babysit a crazy, naked patient.

So I've been so grateful I've had some energy to get a few more things done, where before I'd just collapse at home, sleep, go to work, and repeat it seemed.

So this project is actually a re-make of a gift I received with my son. My best friend's mom gave me this flannel blanket for the car seat.

First of all the design is awesome, because it has holes to allow the straps and buckle through. No more plopping a blanket on baby to just have it fall off and out of the car seat. This is under the baby, and has the extra "arms" of blanket to wrap them up really well.

Also, it is reversible if you have two prints you love.

A big bonus: is it really helps preserve the life of the car seat cushions. I found most of the time I'd just have to take out the blanket and wash out the puke, blow-out, or whatever, rather than disassembling the entire car seat to wash the padding. Even in the hot summer, I left the blanket in the car seat and folded the blanket arms under the sides for a flannel lining I guess.

But this time around, we're having a girl, so I thought I'd make one girly rather than have the boy version.

So it's a pretty awesome little blanket, and hopefully my version will be as useful as my original gift.

I don't crochet very well, so rather than having this amazing edge, my girly mimic is just bound with bias tape.

First off, how it works:

1. Place in your car seat and pull straps and buckles through the holes.

2. Strap in your baby

Wrap up the bottom flap, then each side to make a warm, snugly blanket that can't fall out onto the floor.

TUTORIAL:

SUPPLIES:

-1 1/4 yard flannel or other fabric-- 2 prints

-bias tape or other finish for edges

INSTRUCTIONS:

If you're using flannel or any cotton fabric, make sure you pre-wash for shrinkage.

I also ironed with starch to help the pieces lay together better before cutting.

1. Cut fabric

You'll cut each fabric 41" long.

2. Fold in Quarters

With the fabric folded matching up selvage edges, fold one side on the other into quarters. All raw edges will match up and all selvage edges will match up.

3. Cut Corner Curve

Measure your folded sides to 17" and mark. I would suggest folding your quarter, along the 25" line in photo below--just place one fold on top of the other fold, then you can measure the longest peak of your curve at 25" then curve it down to the 17" mark on the folds. It doesn't have to be perfect, but it's nice if it is all symmetrical.

4. Cut Second Fabric

You could repeat step three and fold in quarters and measure the curve, but I was worried about both sides being matched up, so I just laid out my backing (pink) with wrong side up.

Then I laid my top (blue) with wrong side down and fit them together and smoothed the layers evenly.

Then I just had to trim the curves of pink showing, and I knew the blanket would line up perfectly.

5. Baste Edges

Before my two layers could shift and get messed up, I ran up to serge around the edge. If you don't have a serger, just baste (straight-stitch with longest stitch length) around the edge to secure the two layers together.

6. Measure and Mark Strap Cut Marks

First you'll fold your blanket on a diagonal and get a good center crease to use as a guide.

Next use the following photo to measure out the 2 vertical strap slits, and rectangular buckle hole below. I make my marks with a fabric pen that disappears.

7. Stay-stitch Cut Lines

Before I cut the holes for the straps, I sewed around the vertical lines 1/4" and the buckle rectangle 1/8".

This helped to reinforce the holes, and secure the layers when finishing all the edges.

8. Cut Holes

Cut along the vertical lines, and cut out the rectangle.

9. Finish Edges

My original gift had amazing crochet around all the raw edges. I think they have a machine and punches holes for the crochet edge. Maybe you could find a shop that will punch your fabric if you are talented that way.

I just used bias tape for all my edges. I cut 2" bias strips from a yellow vintage sheet to make my own bias tape, because I was too lazy to go the store. When I bind blankets with my own bias, I don't iron it before, just sew the right sides touching on the front, then fold it under and fold around edge to the back.

But you can just buy packaged bias tape, I'd estimate you'd need 2 packages (6 yards).

Or you could cut the fabrics right sides together way back in step 4 and sew a ruffle/ rick-rack/ pleated edge, etc into the seam, then leave a hole to flip it right side out. Then you would measure and cut the strap holes. You'd probably still need to bias tape the strap holes, but a narrow ruffle on the edge would be cute.

The easiest finish would be a nice rolled hem if you have a serger that does rolled hems. My serger is super old, which is why it was only $35 off craigslist, but I wish it could serge a rolled hem like you see on fabric napkins. If making these for gifts, you could whip them out just serging all the edges with a cute contrasting or matching thread!

When I sewed the bias tape around the straps, it kind of made it stand up at the corners.

baby

Simple Satin Flower Headbands

12:41 AM

First off, I didn't ask my son to wear this flower so I could blog about it. He saw it on the cutting table and put it on like a Rambo sweatband, then twisted it to the side. So I took some photos because I thought it was funny, and decided to use them to blog the headband in the end, which is why the headband is all twisted on his head. I did have to take it away when he figured out it also worked as a sling shot.

This craft is really easy, and I liked the outcome. I used this tutorial from Ashley at Make it and Love It.

You just cut circles of satin and melt the edges, then layer them for the flower.

I did a few things different:

-I used a candle flame rather than a cigarette lighter because I'm just not coordinated to maneuver fire and fabric at the same time.

-Rather than hot glue, I hand sewed through the layers to connect them all and sewed the button on top.

-For the headband, I had this tangerine elastic that I sewed the flower to.

My husband is from a really small town--only one stoplight. They have a craft/ fabric store with a surprising large inventory for such a tiny town, and a lot of cool things I've never seen anywhere else, like all this colored elastic by the yard. The last few times we've visited the in-laws, I have stopped to get a few more colors. You could always dye elastic, but how fun to just grab cool colors for $.50/ yard?

This headband is actually the accessory for the baby girl's easter dress...more on that to come.

And another highlight of my day:

digging out all the play dough he managed to jam into his shoe.

It's actually a homemade recipe from Vanessa here, and the best play dough (lasts for a long time without drying out)...just better on the counter and not in our shoes.

The weird thing is I was 10 feet away reading while he was quietly playing at the counter, I just didn't notice him take off a shoe and stuff it full.

I guess cookie cutters were too boring and two dimensional. A+ for creativity, but big fat F- for good ideas, and I'm glad we only had enough to fill one shoe, rather than both.

art & craft

Ampersand Decor Pillow

5:00 AM

baby

Carseat Canopy

7:00 AM

Kids Clothing

Dinosaur Tails

12:11 AM

**Please be respectful of my designs and only use this tutorial for personal use. Not intended for commercial sale or manufacture, even on a home based scale.
Make them for yourself, to give as gifts, but I'd appreciate not using it for profit.
Thanks.
DINO TAIL TUTORIAL

Today I'll be showing you how to make dinosaur (or dragon) tails!

This is a simple, fun, toy for kids. I designed these tails with two straps that wrap around their waist with velcro in front making it easy for them to get them on and off themselves.

These have been fun during these long winter months when we have to play inside. My boy has "dino fights" with his dad where he wiggles his bum to use the tail as a sword...it's pretty cute.

SUPPLIES:

1/2 to 3/4 yard main fabric-- pretty much any fabric that's not stretchy (this yellow is polyester lining)

1/4 yard spike fabric

5" velcro

Polyfil batting (small bag)

CUT LIST:

MAIN FABRIC:
tail: (cut 2): 22" x 11"
waist straps: (cut 4): 12" x 3"
circle: 7" in diameter
(*I cut a 7" square, fold it in fourths, then cut the curve from fold to fold)

CONTRASTING FABRIC:
spikes (cut 2): 22" x 3.5"

INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Trim tail strips
Taking your two strips 22" x 11", lay them face down. On one end you'll measure 4.5" from each side. The two inches left in the middle will be the tip of the tail.
On the other end, you'll measure 4" along the sides as a marker. Connect these two markings to create a diagonal for the cone shape of the tail. Cut off the triangular sides and throw them away.

2. Make Spike Strip

NOTE: To make the spikes easier, you could cut 1 strip out of felt or fleece and just cut out a spike strip leaving the raw edges that won't fray, rather than sewing your spikes with 2 strips of fabric.

Take your two spike strips and lay them right sides together. Draw a row of triangles along the strip for the tail spikes. Begin at one end and work your way to the other, making the spikes shorter and narrower. I left about 1/2" between each spike.

Sew along your spike line. When you get to the corners it helps to pivot by dropping your needle down into the fabric, lift your presser foot, move the fabric, then start sewing again.

Once your spikes are sewn, trim along your sewn line with 1/4" seam allowance along the whole strip.

Next, you'll need to trim the seam allowances to make it easier to turn the spikes right side out.

On the top of the spikes, you'll trim off the point, being careful not to snip through your seam.

In between each spike, you'll snip diagonally into each corner, once again don't snip through your sewing.

Then you can turn the whole strip of spikes right side out, using a pen lid, knitting needle, etc. to push the tips of the points out. Iron your spike strip nice and flat.

3. Sew Tail Body

First we'll sew the spikes to one piece of the tail. Pin the largest spike to the tall side of your tail piece, lining up the raw edges.

Sew the spike strip to the tail piece with 1/4" seam allowance. This is just basting, or tacking the pieces together.

Next, put your second tail piece so right sides are together, with the spike strip in the middle of the sandwich.

You'll sew down the spike strip again, this time with 1/2" seam allowance, making sure you sew past the troughs so there is a space between each spike when you turn it right side out.

Also, sew a slight curve as you go around the tip of the tail.

When you sew around to the other side, you'll need to stop your seam to leave a hole for turning the tail right side out later. I leave about 4 to 5" unsewn underneath the spikes. This way, it's on the bottom of the tail.

4. Sew Waist Straps

Take your 4 strips for the waist straps and put 2 right sides together. This will give you two sets.

You'll sew down a long side, across the short, and up the other long side on each set. Use 1/2" seam allowance.

Then you'll need to snip off the corners, being careful not to cut through your seam.

Next you'll turn each strap right side out, pushing out the corners with a pen lid or knitting needle.

I like to top-stitch the edges to make the straps lay nice and flat. For this tail I used a zig-zag stitch with contrasting thread, but you could always just sew a straight stitch.

The last step to make your waist strap is to sew your velcro pieces to each end. Center the velcro in the center of your strap and 1/2" from the very end.

5. Complete Tail Construction

To close the large end of the taill, first mark the quarters by lining up the top (spike) seam with the bottom seam and pinning the folds on the sides.

Next you'll pin your waist straps inside the tail. Pin the straps to the quarter side marks.

The important thing to remember is the velcro has to be pinned opposite so the straps will match up around the waist. So put one waist strap with velcro down on the right side of the tail, then pin the other waist strap with the veclro facing up into the cavity of the tail.

Sew the straps to the sides of the tail 1/4" from edge.

To finish off the tail, you'll pin your circle fabric (with the right side facing into the tail) around the large tail opening. I fold my circle in quarters so I have a crease vertically and across to use as a guide to pin to the two seams (top and bottom) then line up with the waist straps on the sides.

Next you sew around your circle with 1/2" seam allowance.

6. Stuff and Finish

At this point your dino tail is sewn and you can turn it right side out through the hole you left on the bottom seam. Your velcro waist straps should be oriented to match and stick together, and your spikes should stand up out of the top seam.

Next you'll stuff your tail with Poly-fil batting. The density of your stuffing does determine how the tail will look. I stuffed this yellow tail tighter than the blue or green tails, and I noticed it stood almost straight out from the boy's back, where leaving the stuffing a little looser makes a more droopy tail. Whichever you prefer.

Once your tail is stuffed to your liking, pin the hole closed underneath. I chose to just machine sew the seam shut, but it would probably look best to hand-sew the seam closed to allow it to lay flat.

Then you're finished! Now you can whip out a whole set with different colors!

Some ideas for variation:

-length: it's easy to make the tail longer or shorter, by cutting the tail and spike pieces longer than 22", but all the same length.

-felt or fleece spikes: as mentioned ealier in tutorial, you could make the tail even easier by cutting felt or fleece spikes with one layer rather than sewing/ turning 2 pieces of fabric

-make it girly: you could make a more feminine tail for little girls by making the spikes rounded scallops rather than pointed spikes

-printed fabrics: I stuck with bright solids, but textured or printed fabrics would look awesome too.