We'd told the framers our plan for the heavy beams, which weighed 100 lb, and they framed above the fireplaces accordingly.

To mount each beam took two people.

I got behind and straddled the fireplace while my husband stood in front holding the beam level.

1. Predrill 2x6 mounting framing.

We positioned holes in the framing across the area the beam would end up.

2. Drill and Mount Beam

From behind, I drilled a pilot hole with an auger drill bit into the beam, an inch or two less than the screw.
Then quickly inserted a long hex screw with washer and tightened it. 

Once we got two in the beam and it was level, it was easier to secure the others.

The basement fireplace was having a rock surround, so we actually bumped it out another 1.5" with a 2x8 backer.  This way 2" of the beam wouldn't be covered and embedded in the rock and we'd get a deeper mantle. 

Info for the rock we used here:

The main floor was the same process. 

PLAYROOM UNDER THE STAIRS

The other detail was adding an arch.

We chose to use the space underneath the basement stairs as a playroom or hut.

It was framed for a full sized door, so Rhett and I framed the opening lower and used an arch kit from Home Depot for $20.

It was really easy to install.

Then when drywall went up, it was a cute arched doorway.

The kids love this little room just for them.

SMOOTH DRYWALL TEXTURE

In the master bedroom, I had planned an accent wall.

Our mud/ texture crew did one wall with a smooth texture, and the rest of the house had a medium scrape texture.  The scrape texture kind of reminds me of the Venetian plaster look. 

I'm glad I had planned enough to have the smooth texture, because in projects down the road it made it a lot easier.  I actually wished I'd had them do smooth in our entryway that I was putting up wallpaper for as well.

Because it was an exterior window, it was installed by the framers and endured the entire building process.

Framing and rough plumbing and electrical.

Drywall.

I installed all the finish carpentry or millwork around windows and doorways, and we hired painters.

If you look closely at the window, there are imperfections.

It is far from perfect.

This was the only leaded glass or stained glass window that had to be completed during construction.

I have a ton more I need to do, but that will come in the months ahead. 

We installed aluminum bottom track to help any moisture drain away rather than wick up the wall, with another layer of the window seal along the floor. 

SHEET METAL:

After calculating the required metal, I purchased all our sheet metal locally from Metalmart in Lehi, Utah.

4x10' sheets of 20 gauge cold rolled steel

I liked the silver metal look, but my husband hated that idea.  So we compromised on a rusted, metal look.  So after purchasing our sheet metal, I cut it in half, making 2' tall x 10' long sheets.

ACID WASHING STEEL:

I wanted to corrode the raw steel before I installed it, so each piece had a unique pattern.

I used different methods with muriatic acid, white vinegar, and water.

There wasn't a specific method, spray acids on alone, some with water too, some just water.

METAL SIDING INSTALL:

The process was pretty simple.  I planned to install from the bottom left to finish in the upper right. Each panel was 2 feet tall, and I cut the width as I went to create a random look.  

To attach them to the wall, I screwed them to the sheathing using raw steel screws that have a washer built in.  They are more expensive, but really cool if you are into screws.  I've had 3 other sub-contractors comment on the cool screws, pretty funny.

McFeely's #10 1-inch washer-head screws

Not only do you save time not needing a washer, but these screws are also raw steel and will rust, so you don't end up with a rusted metal wall and bright silver screws.

TIPS ON CUTTING SHEET METAL:

I went through a few different methods on cutting the sheet metal.

At first I considered a torch, but it wasn't easy to transport or get a straight cut.

Then I got the angle grinder with 7" metal pads and they'd be gone in a 5 ft cut.

SO I finally figured out and stuck with a metal blade on a circular saw.  Make sure you have a saw with a cord, batteries will die really quickly.

I bought this blade from amazon and it worked great through the whole project and many cuts.

Obviously any time you're cutting, wear ear and eye protection, unlike sawdust, it sends sparks and metal fragments.  I have to admit I felt pretty cool cutting with the spray of sparks behind me.  Metal is scarier, but more fun to cut than metal.

Before installing, I pre-drilled holes 6" apart, with 1/2" from the metal edge.  Make sure to use drill bits manufactured to drill through metal and you save time if you make a template.

I put my first chunk of sheet metal on, and only screwed the left and bottom edges.

Then when I added the next piece, I overlapped it 4" side to side, and the next row .overlapped 2" down

As the wall comes along, you work your way up and right.

You can see below I would chalk a line after using a level to overlap vertically 2 inches on the top of each row.

Of course you will have interferences like windows you need to cut around.

I measured and cut the piece, then installed it.

To allow wiring for exterior plugs, I just drilled a large pre-measured hole in the sheet metal.

When I got to the windows, I knew I would install the window trim later, and therefore wanted the metal flat, not a screw head poking up.  So on the metal edges bordering windows, I used the framing nail gun to attach it to the house. 

As it went, I selected the different sheets of corrosion to add variety in the overall wall.

I loved the way it turned out.

The siding contractor that did all the regular siding begged me to just let him install the same siding down on the basement as the rest of the house. I told him I was doing my own siding down there with metal and he just didn't get it.  After a few different conversations, his final plea was: "Please just let us do the Hardie Board down there, you have this beautiful house and you're just going to ruin it."

I told him I was doing what I wanted, and a few months later he came by to check it out and saw the metal and oohed and aahed, and ate his words saying it looked really cool and a lot better than how I originally explained it.

That was a good moment in the house build.

Building our house ourselves meant our kids were on site...a lot.

But cutting the sheet metal was too dangerous, so I mostly worked on this project at night after they were in bed and my husband was home. 

The look obviously isn't for every home or every style, but I am so excited about my metal siding.

Other than my husband helping me haul the sheets of metal, I completed this project entirely on my own. It got tricky when it was above my head on a ladder, but if an out of shape mom can do it, anyone can!

I am so excited for my final vision of this space!  This metal wall is just the beginning.

After digging out around the foundation, layers of landscaping fabric went down, along with at least 2' of gravel for adequate drainage.  The final gravel level was 6" lower than the concrete edge of the window opening.

We had access to a small loader which made the gravel step easier.

Then the railroad ties were cut to length.

THIS WAS THE WORST PART.

Using a chain saw, cutting the timbers varied so much from timber to timber.

The oil they are manufactured with to fireproof for railroad use made some harder than oak to cut.

My husband spent half the time sharpening the chain saw blades, sometimes only 1 cut between sharpenings.

To anchor the timbers, Rhett drilled holes vertically every 2 timbers with an 18" auger drill bit using a hammer drill.  

Then pounded rebar through the ties into the ground.  

Each 2 timbers made a "step" and the next 2 timbers were about 4-6" away, so the windo well sides were stairs for escape purposes.

Once the window well was complete, we wrapped it as best we could in tar paper, (to prevent water/mud from coming through the cracks) then pushed the dirt back up to support it.

The top rows were bolted down with washers to lower levels for a more pleasing look, and to avoid rebar poking out of holes on the top layer.

I think the final look is unique and fits the vibe of other timber and rustic elements in our home.

Once the ground on top is landscaped, floor cover plants will cascade down in to further enhance the view from the basement bedrooms.

More posts from our house building adventure!

But looking for options proved to be an expensive route.

The gable would have to be custom to get what we want and cost  more than our budget allowed, so I figured we'd do it ourselves.  I climbed up there to figure out the overall height I wanted from the peak of the roof.  I also knew our roof was 6/12 pitch (meaning every 12 ft the roof goes up 6 ft).

I mapped out the design on thick pattern paper.  This helped me stand back and see how I wanted the curved arms on the diagonal.   I started out coming 45 degrees from the intersection, but realized the curve needed to go more vertical and end closer to the middle. 

I climbed up and taped up my design on the actual house to make sure I liked the angle.

TO CONSTRUCT:

The center vertical beam is a rough cut 4x6.

The base was a 16' 2x4.

Curved arms cut from rough cut 2x12

The only piece that is flush against the house is the vertical center, the base was notched out to hold the 16' base in front.  The base and arms are flush with the front, making a 2" gap behind them.  

A NOTE ON ROUGH CUT LUMBER: 

Rough cut is a preliminary cut, and is obviously rough showing saw markings, which is ideal for the rustic or weathered look.  It's actual measurements, so a rough cut 2x 4 is 2" thick and 4" wide, unlike dimensional lumber off the shelf which is 1.5" thick and 3.5" wide.  You can't find rough cut lumber at big box stores like Home Depot or Lowes, you usually need to find an actual lumber mill.

If you're in Utah, my favorite Fishlake Lumber in Beaver, Utah.

Our gable beam was around $60.

TO INSTALL:

I don't have any photos of the install, as we were all involved.

We chose to install the lag screws from inside the house, so the exterior didn't show bolt heads and washers.

All the pieces were cut, and finished while on the ground.

I used Thompsons water seal stain, semi-transparent, in Acorn Brown.

In one step you stain and seal the wood, which will be nice for future coats where I'll be on the roof.

To install, we pre-drilled through the exterior of the house into the attic space.

My husband was on the inside, and then pre-drilled into 4x6 center post while my huge little brother and I held it up from the outside.

My husband then cranked lug screws into the post from inside the house.

After the first one, we didn't need to hold the weight, but just supported it until 4 screws were holding it to the house.

To secure the long ends of the base, we repeated the process, using a 18" long drill bit to pre-drill through the beam, directly through the house.  Then my husband fed the next lag screw out, and cranked it into the wood.  

Lastly, the small curved arms were also attached individually and screwed through the attic and into the back of each piece, one toward the base, and another at the roof line.

Installing was kind of a beast.

Working through the attic wall was a pain, in addition to being on the roof with the incline and height of the gable.

I love the finished look, and think it adds a lot to the overall style we're heading with the exterior.

We plan to later add rustic shutters, and the posts will be trimmed out with rough cut lumber as well.

I guess I'd describe our goal as rustic cottage for the home and future landscaping.